An Eye In The Sky – EASTER ISLAND

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5 – 7-November 2019
Throughout the summer without a boat in the harbor, my thoughts had revolved around Easter Island. The Third corner of the Polynesian triangle far to the east. What was this small community? Was it 3-4,000 meters tall volcanoes like Samoa and others in the great triangle that THE Pacific poses? A third of the world´s surface. Is it an atoll, which is just rung on the sea surface, as apple rings in a fondue pot, or was it something in between? 30,000 islands are scattered if the other two groups of Melanesian and Micronesia are included.

I could easily imagine an atoll group, as my imagination has whirled around Suvarov for more than fifty years, the atoll, where the Frisbie family lived, father and four children, of whom, the daughter “Cowboy” has written the most beautiful books as an example: The Friesbies Of The South Seas.

The New Zealander, Tom Neal (An island for Myself), later lived there over three laps, as an eremite on Suvarov. Tom lived quite like Robinson Crusoe and was almost angry when sailors a rare time did the land walk and disturbed his life. I have myself in Apia met the German Rollo, who with his Swedish friend Britta as the figure of Galion has been there. She was on a certain stretch with him but had to do nothing, so as not to get him out of routines on stretches, where he was alone. Rollo stayed the winter over in Durban, as everyone else does before he then stuck around the Cape of Good Hope and home to Switzerland.

Would Easter Island, singular, be like Tahiti? No, it’s an island quite of its own. 4,000 km sea around.

That’s it, just a few volcanic mounds. Just a single Sandy Bay in the north. A small village where the inhabitants of the island live a little simple the part of the year, in which tourism is low. All the compounds of the village are quite large, so one can have lots of hens i.e. eggs and chicken meat. All cargo is transhipped out in the Bay for an anchor. Only a single sailboat was seen at anchor far out. Not at all like Tahiti and the islands there. Four – five planes lands during the week on their way from Santiago in Chile 4,000 km, so on in two stretches of each also 4,000 km to Auckland in NZ via a few hours stop-over at Tahiti. Of course, also landing on the way back eastbound. The planes are a bit too big to be fully outside of peak seasons.

When the United States operated its shuttle spacecraft, a five-six-kilometer-long runway was constructed for a possible emergency landing of the returning space vessel on the southern hemisphere. Was never actual, but now the track goes from side to side right by the village. The island has a thousand TIKI lava figures, which today have been raised again. I went walking around on photo Safaris along the sea. The Island Cemetery is exciting, as imagination is unleashed and flower-blown beautifully. The cemetery also benefits from lying at the end of the village and a bit high. A very pleasant visit was to the Woodcutter Luis Tomas Pate Kirutoc, (which at the international level has exhibited at the Bishop Museum, Honolulu).

A two day stay on the island is relaxation for the soul, simply needing only to think of the 4,000 km of water everywhere, all around. An area is quite much larger than the whole of Europe. Quality of terror check on departure, I shall not describe in detail (the hollow as a mesh). My hostess with six rooms in her house, described the life and weather of the island as: either raining, or it is dry, either it blows or else it is quiet. I did not have rain, which, incidentally, applied to my entire
journey. The island’s population is half-old, half-newcomers from Chile, and its Museum does not have much to tell.

As a stopover on the road they probably 12,000 km New Zealand to South America, it was very much an experience, but as a separate destination, lacks nature and climate. Tourist beaches are
not there either.

Et øje i himlen – Påske Ø

5–7 november 2019
I løbet af sommeren uden en båd i havnen, havde mine tanker cirklet omkring Påskeøen. Det tredje hjørne af den polynesiske trekant langt mod øst. Hvad var det lille fællesskab? Var det 3-4000 meter høje vulkaner som Samoa og andre i den store trekant, som Stillehavet udgør? En tredjedel af verdens overflade. Er det en atoll, der bare er ringe på havets overflade, som æbleringe i en fondue pot, eller var det noget imellem? 30.000 øer ligger spredt, hvis de to andre grupper af Melanesian og Mikronesien er inkluderet.

Jeg kunne sagtens forestille mig en Atoll gruppe, da min fantasi har hvirvlet omkring Suvarov i mere end 50 år, atollen, hvor familien Frisbie levede, far og fire børn, af hvem, datter “cowboy” har skrevet de smukkeste bøger som et eksempel: Friesbies i sydhavene.
Den nye indvandrer, Tom Neal (Een ø for Myself), levede senere der over tre omgange, som eremit. Tom levede helt ligesom Robinson Crusoe og var næsten vred, når sejlere en sjælden gang gjorde landgang og forstyrrede hans liv. Jeg har selv i Apia mødt den tyske Rollo, der med sin svenske veninde Britta som figuren Galion har været der. Hun var på en vis strækning med ham, men var nødt til ikke at gøre noget, for ikke at få ham ud af rutiner på strækninger, hvor han var alene. Rollo forblev vinteren over i Durban, som alle andre gør, før han derefter stak omkring Kap GOOD hjem til Schweiz.

Ville Påskeøen, ental, være som Tahiti? Nej, det er en ø helt af sin egen. 4.000 km hav rundt. Det er det, bare et par vulkanske mounds. Bare en enkelt Sandy Bay i nord. En lille landsby, hvor øens indbyggere lever lidt enkelt den del af året, hvor turismen er lav. Alle matrikler i landsbyen er ret store, så man kan have masser af høns i. e. æg og kylling kød. Al last omlades i bugten for anker. Kun en enkelt sejlbåd blev set ankrende langt ud. Overhovedet ikke som Tahiti og øerne
der. Fire, fem fly lander i løbet af ugen på vej fra Santiago i Chile 4.000 km væk, så videre i to strækninger af hver også 4.000 km til Auckland i NZ via et par timer stop-over på Tahiti. Selvfølgelig også landinger igen på vej tilbage østbundet. Flyene er lidt for store til at være fulde uden for højsæsonens.

Da USA drev sin shuttle rumfartøj, blev en fem-seks kilometer lang landingsbane bygget til en mulig nødlanding af et tilbagevendende rumfartøj på den sydlige halvkugle. Var aldrig aktuelt, men nu gårbanen fra side til side lige ved landsbyen. Øen har tusind TIKI lava figurer, som i dag er blevet rejst igen. Jeg gik rundt på foto Safaris langs havet. Øens kirkegård er spændende, da fantasien er sluppet løs og blomster svajer smukt. Kirkegården nyder også godt af at ligge i slutningen af landsbyen og lidt højt. Et meget behageligt besøg var til woodcutter Luis Tomas Pate Kirutoc, (som på internationalt plan har udstillet på Bishop Museum, Honolulu).

En to-dages ophold på øen er afslapning for sjælen, blot behøver kun at tænke på de 4.000 km vand overalt, rundt omkring. Et område, som er ret meget større end hele Europa. Kvaliteten af terror kontrol ved afrejse, jeg shalle ikke beskrive i detaljer (den hollav som et mesh).

Min værtinde med seks værelser i sit hus, beskrev liv og vejr på øen som: enten regner det, eller det er tørt, enten blæser det eller er stille. Jeg havde ikke regn, som i øvrigt gjaldt hele min rejse. Øens befolkning er halv gammel, halvt nyankomne fra Chile, og dens Museum har ikke meget at fortælle.

Som en mellemlanding på vejen de 12.000 km New Zealand til Sydamerika, det var en fin oplevelse, men mangler som en separat destination, natur og klima. Turist strande er der heller ikke.

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